10 Travel Notes for St. John, USVI

St. John also nicknamed “Love City” is the smallest and most natural of the U.S. Virgin Islands. St. John is 60% parkland that was donated to the territory by the Rockefeller family.

In the fall of 2017 hurricanes, Irma and Maria swept through the Caribbean causing destruction and devastation to the Leeward Islands. Recovery on St. John has been steady, as they work to bring back the visitors on which these islands are so dependent. Country singer Kenny Chesney has a residence on St. John and all proceeds from his “Songs for the Saints” album are earmarked for the long-term recovery of the island.

1. Getting there

Reaching St. John is not for the faint of heart but well worth the effort. St. John does not have an airport so you will need to first arrive in St. Thomas USVI or Tortola BVI by plane or cruise ship. From there you will have to take a taxi to a ferry or private boat to get to this remote island. Or if you are a sailor and lucky enough to have a boat of your own, you can moor in different spots around the island.

2. Where to stay on St. John

We stay at the Gallows Point Resort in Cruz Bay. This resort is made up of 15 buildings, four units per building. All condos have a water view either ocean or harbor. The site has a pool, hot tub, gym, and exceptional private snorkeling right in front of the property. Gallows Point is a short walk to town where you will find restaurants, shopping, and services. As a result, you may not need to rent a car if you stay in Cruz Bay. Gallows Point provides free pickup and drop-off for the ferry.

Visitors can also stay at the Westin the only remaining hotel resort on the island or rent villas and condos all over the island. The town of Coral Bay on the eastern side of the island has a loyal following of people who will only stay on that part of the island. There are a number of people who rent boats and “island hop” for their vacation. Many services are available to make your stay easier including car rental and food provision delivery to your vacation rental before you arrive.

Stocking the pantry…

We were going out for lunches and dinners to support the local economy but wanted to cook some meals in the condo for a more relaxed vibe. You can find most foods in the island grocery stores, the Starfish Market and Dolphin Market. But in order not to take resources from the island residents, we brought down some frozen steaks, bacon, cheeses, coffee, nuts, spices, and cereal in a checked bag while still purchasing eggs, milk, fruit, and vegetables from the local markets.

We have not used them because we arrive on Sunday, their day off. These folks are masters of refrigerator provisioning and creative arrangement design. Hope to use them in the future. If you are looking to maximize your time at the beach or pool and have a large group at a remote villa, look into having them provision for you. I hope to in the future if we arrive on a day other than Sunday.

3. Taxis and Rental Cars

There are many open-air safari truck taxis to take you to the beaches and sites all over the island. Taxis are almost always available at the ferry dock in Cruz Bay. They frequently wait for passengers at the taxi stand area at Trunk Bay and Cinnamon Bay.

During high season, rent your car well in advance, there are a limited number of vehicles and the car ferry from St. Thomas has become unpredictable since the hurricanes hit. We used “Just Sun Jeeps” for car rental on our last trip. The agency delivered the car to Gallows Point resort and picked it up after we left.

A great book to help you explore the island is “St. John – Feet, Fins, and Four Wheel Drive” by Pam Gaffin. It has maps, directions, and detailed descriptions of places to explore all over the island.

Things to remember about driving in the Virgin Islands

• Drive on the left
• The rugged terrain makes it take longer to get to places on the island. The roads are steep and winding, and there are occasional obstacles like donkeys that slow the trip down. Keep this in mind if you stay in some of the more remote areas of the island.
• Watch out for large vehicles and distracted pedestrians
• Slow down around the hairpin turns
• Watch out for potholes and avoid unpaved roads that can get washed out by rain storms.
• Keep a safe distance, cars may stop at any time to talk to friends.

4. Dining – where to eat

Our first stop after checking in to Gallows Point is to head to “The Banana Deck” for mahi-mahi sandwiches, painkillers, and a bottle of Caribe beer.

Woody’s Seafood Saloon is another iconic hangout spot in Cruz Bay, famous for 3-6 happy hours and conch fritters.

Some of the other great dining spots on the island include Extra Virgin Bistro, with elevated Italian offerings, La Tapa, a seasonal tapas restaurant, and The Longboard, with light, fresh, Caribbean plates, and creative cocktails. There are really so many great restaurants on the island to choose from, from casual to formal, for all palates. Seafood is top-notch on the islands.

One of the traditions we have on our trips to St. John is to spend our last night having a sunset dinner at the open-air rooftop bar at Oceans 362. Oceans 362 is located in the catbird’s seat on the top of the Gallows Point Resort providing 270-degree views of the ocean and offering an “island to table” menu of locally sourced food selections including spiny lobsters and microgreens.

5. Savoring Sunsets on St. John

There is nothing like a sunset in the islands, water, and sky blend into incredible reflections, with the occasional boat or bird floating through the scene.

6. Boat trips and other adventures…

For the active adventurers, there are a number of water sports outfits on the island. Offerings include scuba diving, paddle boarding, mangrove kayaking, dingy rental, parasailing, fishing charters, snorkel tours, sailing tours, and group charter excursions through the U. S. and the British Virgin Islands.

Ella and I went parasailing here.

Island Roots Boat Charters

For the past few visits, we have chartered a boat for a day trip around the islands from “Island Roots Charters.” This day has always been one of our favorite days. Our last trip included British Virgin Islands snorkeling stops at the Norman Island Caves, the Indians, Willie T’s, and the Soggy Dollar Bar. Other trips have taken us to the Baths, Foxy’s Taboo, and Sandy Cay. They are happy to tailor a sailing tour for the needs and desires of your group.

We are “Survivor” fans and what a treat to have Capt. Jason a “Survivor” contestant captain our boat trip.

7. Things to bring

First of all, pack reef-safe sunscreen. It is now a law. Traditional sunscreens contain chemicals such as oxybenzone and octinoxate that are toxic to coral reefs and sea life, so while you are swimming and snorkeling protect the reef while protecting your skin.

Secondly, one of the things that we love having for this trip is having our own snorkel masks and travel fins. Although the charter boats have snorkel gear available for use it is nice to have your own that fits correctly. We also brought traditional snorkel masks.

We also brought these travel fins they are shorter than traditional fins and fit well in most carry-on bags.

Lastly, don’t leave valuables on the beach or in a rental car. Use a waterproof sports case. These little cases can hold keys, money, ids, and credit cards. They can be worn while you swim or snorkel, and they float.

8. Beaches and Trails

The beaches on St. John are as numerous as they are varied. Beaches along the northern shore are made up of fine coral sand, and the beaches are a little rockier on the southern coast. Don’t forget to bring water, snacks, reef-safe sunscreen, snorkel gear, and a hat. In addition, most condos and villas provide chairs and beach towels for their guests’ use. Taxis can also give you rides to any of the island’s beaches, and you can arrange to have them pick you up at a particular time at some of the more remote beaches. Trunk Bay is a popular cruise ship excursion so it can be crowded during mid-morning and mid-afternoon hours. Here are some of the more popular beaches.

• Honeymoon – Food, drinks, beach gear, and water sports rentals are available. A hike from Lind Point Trail.
• Hawksnest – One of our favorites, this beach is close to town with picnic tables and changing room facilities.
• Trunk – The only beach that charges a $5 park entry fee. One of the most beautiful beaches in the Caribbean. Bring or rent snorkel gear here so that you can experience the underwater snorkeling trail.
• Cinnamon – This is one of the most extensive beaches with great snorkeling.
• Maho – This calm and protected bay is famous for sea turtle sightings it has picnic tables and parking available.
• Salt Pond – This beach with diverse snorkeling is along the southeastern part of the island and it is accessed from Coral Bay.

Trails – Virgin Islands National Park

The National Parks Service oversees the park and the many trails that run all over the island. An excellent way to spend the day when you want to explore the tropical flora and fauna of the island.

Also, two additional sites worth exploring: Annaberg Plantation ruins of an 18th-century sugar plantation, including a windmill tower & factory, with ocean views. Also, the petroglyphs of Reef Bay are another site to check out. The petroglyphs are a group of Taíno petroglyph carvings located in a part of the park called the Reef Bay Trail. A popular symbol found on St. John in jewelry design.

9. Popular Wedding Destination

Our first trip to St. John was part of my cousin’s destination wedding. The wedding was held on Peace Hill with the ruins of an old windmill as the backdrop. The wedding party of 40+ then embarked on a giant catamaran for a sunset cruise to Jost Van Dyke. Dinner was a rustic beach barbecue at Foxy’s, and we ended the night with a moonlight cruise back to St. John.

10. Souvenirs

St. John is an island in hurricane recovery, so anything we can do to help support the people on this island where tourism is the primary source of income. Renting condos and villas, eating in restaurants, and patronizing the local shops help support the people that were hit so hard. I have purchased t-shirts, jewelry, and Cruzen rum which is produced on St. Croix.

• Bamboo Studio – Hook Bracelets and Island Charms
• Low Key Water Sports and Big Planet II for T-shirts and beachwear.
• Starfish or Dolphin Markets – Cruzen Rum
• Freebird Creations – Jewelry for all price points – (You can get a shipwreck “piece of eight” pendant here.)
• St. John’s Spice Company– Island-made items and specialty foods
• Bajo el Sol Gallery – Local art

5 St. John Travel Tips

• Visit St. John during the off-season to get great deals and avoid the crowds.
• Don’t be afraid to explore the island either on foot, by boat, taxi, or jeep.
• You don’t have to but it can be helpful to bring some food down with you.
• Pack reef-safe sunscreen
• Don’t leave valuables on the beach or in a rental car. Use a waterproof sports case.

Next Month Oia, Santorini, Greece…